The market for organic products—grown using organic fertilizers without pesticides or chemical fertilizers—is expanding.

The market for organic products—grown using organic fertilizers without pesticides or chemical fertilizers—is expanding. Organic cotton (pesticide-free cotton) is particularly in the spotlight, with the current estimated annual market size at approximately 1 trillion yen. Although the price at the raw cotton stage is about twice that of conventional cotton, the market is growing as these products are considered environmentally friendly, with the use of pesticides and chemicals minimized from cultivation through to manufacturing. Avanti Co., Ltd., the company featured here, is a specialized trading firm that has been handling organic cotton for eight years and is a pioneer in the import of organic cotton to Japan. We spoke with Chieko Watanabe, the company’s president. ● How She Discovered Organic Cotton Ms. Watanabe founded Avanti Co., Ltd. in 1985. While importing a wide range of household goods, she encountered organic cotton in 1990. “It all started when an acquaintance asked me to import it to Japan, and I agreed on a whim. Up until then, I had always associated cotton with a natural image, so I became interested when I learned that organically grown cotton existed.” She immediately began importing fabric from the United States, but initially, annual sales amounted to only a few million yen. “Back then, even though we called it organic cotton, nobody in Japan knew what it was, and there was absolutely no information available. I took the plunge and visited Texas, the largest producer of organic cotton.” In Texas, she toured facilities covering everything from organic cotton production to distribution. Texas has long been a major cotton-producing region, and it is known for its strategic initiatives regarding organic cotton—such as the state Department of Agriculture establishing its own standards in 1989. Various innovative practices were in place, such as refraining from using defoliants during harvesting, using natural predators for pest control, utilizing the abundant cattle manure in Texas as organic fertilizer, and minimizing the use of chemicals at every stage of the process, right up to sewing. Furthermore, the state Department of Agriculture had established a robust management system to prevent fraud, such as inflating production figures or using pesticides, covering the entire process from production to distribution. “Above all, I was deeply moved by my encounters with the cotton farmers.” This is because most of them are Christians who view it as their mission to pass on the farmland they currently cultivate in a healthy state to the next generation and, ultimately, to God. Organic farming had become part of their religious beliefs, and Mr. Watanabe—himself a farmer’s son from Hokkaido—resonated with their view of nature and resolved to make organic cotton his life’s work. Upon returning to Japan, he began preparations to establish a trading company specializing in organic cotton. In 1993, he founded the local subsidiary “KatanHouse” in Texas and received certification from the Texas Department of Agriculture to handle organic cotton. ● Sales of our own brand began in February Although we were now able to import raw cotton and process it, we were starting from scratch with absolutely no existing demand, which made it extremely difficult to find companies willing to cooperate. Since organic cotton does not use chemicals, it requires a different manufacturing process than conventional cotton, so spinning mills, textile manufacturers, and garment manufacturers all needed a deep understanding of organic cotton. Nevertheless, after visiting various manufacturers, eight companies agreed to cooperate in the production of organic cotton products. Furthermore, during this process, Mr. Watanabe—who was a complete novice when it came to textiles—began learning everything from technical terminology to the fundamentals of textiles. In 1993, the nine companies—the eight mentioned earlier plus Avanti—established the “Japan/Texas Organic Cotton Association” and even managed to organize an inspection trip to Texas. They established supply rates, and as the use of organic cotton in baby and children’s clothing, bedding, and other items increased, major apparel manufacturers like Wacoal and World were on the verge of adopting it around 1995. However, the Great Hanshin Earthquake struck, causing these manufacturers based in the Kansai region to postpone their plans to adopt organic cotton. “While it was unavoidable, it was a painful blow because we were just starting to get things on track.” Nevertheless, they used this as an opportunity to resolve not only to supply raw cotton but also to produce finished products under their own brand. “Organic cotton won’t catch on unless people buy it because it’s lovely and discover later that it’s organic—not because they assume it must be expensive just because it’s organic. To achieve that, we need to move away from designs that look a bit old-fashioned.” Through various innovations, such as incorporating embroidered lace made with organic cotton thread, we have developed sophisticated designs. “By processing the raw cotton in Japan, we can utilize advanced sewing techniques while also hoping to encourage the textile industry to consider environmentally friendly products,” he says, noting that fabric production, design, and sewing are all carried out almost entirely within Japan. In late February 1998, the company finally launched its own brand, “Pristine.” Sales began at the Matsuya Department Store in Ginza. Plans for several other locations have also been finalized. “After eight years of working with organic cotton, we’ve reached a stage where we first encouraged textile manufacturers to produce the fabric, then asked apparel manufacturers to use it, and finally, the retail industry is asking us, ‘Please let us carry your products.’” Thanks to sales of our own brand, we expect a 50% increase in sales in 1998 compared to the previous year. “For Mr. Watanabe, his encounter with organic cotton marked the start of his second life. ‘I plan to continue promoting its use, and I hope that in the future, organic cotton will become a completely ordinary material,’ he said.”